Cortina: Arrivederci Italia
August 8-9: From the Great War to the Moon
A couple of fairly quiet days, a welcome lull before my climb. Wednesday I joined a large (20+) group of mostly British vacationers on Isabelle's tour of sites from World War I. The tour took us up a modest pass to the foot of a mountain held throughout the war by the Austrian, facing a similar Italian installation across the valley.
The views from the valley were pretty fine both to the West and South, as can be seen in these shots.
As you can see from the pictures below, stone trenches and gun positions remain almost 100 years later. Isabelle discussed the lengthy and bloody war in the area; upwards of 100,000 men died in various local battles, many from the harsh conditions, accidents and poor hygiene. The highlight of the tour was a walk down a lengthy tunnel (sorry, no pics), past areas used for barracks, kitchens, cisterns, storage, officer's quarters, telephone switch rooms and toilets. The noise (from diesel generators), fumes, bitter cold and wet, claustrophobic conditions must have made this a living hell for those serving here.
The military installation was in the shadow of an impressive col that several free climbers were taking on, their strangely loud shouts echoing down as we ate lunch atop the pass. They are too small, I think, to see in this pic.
Evening in Cortina was quiet for me. I tend to eat earlier (7:00) than most. Shops are open until 8 and most visitors stroll the shopping district, grabbing a glass of rose or a gelato before heading on to dinner. The mostly fancy shops had sales on but there were more lookers than buyers. The salumeria selling prosciutto, speck and other meats and cheeses had the goods of greatest interest for me, though.
Thursday was my last day hiking with Isabelle. We went a few miles north to Fiames, where we switched to a four-wheel for the winding uphill trip to the start of the hike. Over the next 7 hours, we slowly toured the famed landscape of Sennes, much of it strewn with boulders thrown off by the mountains surrounding the area. As you can see, the slow shifting of rock over millions of years has tortured some of the layers of rock into wild configurations, with whole layers exposed to elements that cause landslides and, in winter, avalanches.
Continuing on, we came to a small alpine lake near a small farm with a large herd of sheep with (as you can see) the odd goat. In a separate area, new-born little sheep stayed with their moms; this one seemed especially cute as it munched on moss).
After a long, knee-aching walk down, we finally reached the pick-up area for the return to Cortina. I enjoyed more pizza that night to fuel up for the big day tomorrow.
August 10: I Can't Believe I Climbed the Whole Thing
Although I've done a lot of hiking (especially recently) and done a fair amount of rock scrambling, I have never really done anything like real climbing. Thus, I was a climbing virgin (there's an image for you) as I approached today's via ferrata climb of the Col di Bos, a 1500 foot peak we'd hiked around on Thursday. My guide was Paolo, a licensed alpinist (and winter ski instructor); two others were also in our small group, a nice young couple (Carlo and Laura), who were vacationing from Milan with their two young children and nanny. Laura had done some climbing years ago and both were fit but neither had done anything like this either.
Paulo kitted us out with helmets, harnesses and a few minutes of instruction as we waited our turn at the bottom of the mountain. Via ferrata climbing uses fixed wire ropes rather than than temporary ropes set by climbers for a particular climb. It involves much less technique and danger than ordinary free climbing. Each climber has two short ropes with clips that are clipped on to the wire at almost all times (we were also attached to each other by longer ropes).
I truly had no idea what to expect and did not appreciate what it took to actually do this sort of climbing, which was probably a good thing. As Paolo warned us, the beginning 30 meters was quite difficult, with some overhang and few foot or handholds. My inexperience and modest upper body strength almost got the better of me before I had hardly even started but, with much huffing and puffing (not to mention patience from Laura, who was below me), I hauled my carcass up high enough to get to a slightly easier portion. It took me a while to get the rhythm of hooking and unhooking, and of finding decent handholds and footholds. As is true of most of the Dolomites, the Col di Bos is slowly crumbling, making for more places to grab onto than, say, igneous rock formations but, at the same time, the edges tended to be razor-sharp. Also, loose, as a rock from above reminded me when it clanged off my helmet.
So on we went, constantly up, up up, clipping and unclipping, trying to avoid tangling with the ropes connecting us. I paid no attention to the cumulating height or the sheer drop below; my focus was riveted ahead of me as I tried to grapple with getting my ungainly self up. Only once, when the route curved around a sheer overhang with nothing below for hundreds of feet other than a small outcropping (two inches wide) to stand on, did the reality where I was really hit my gut (actually a little lower than that). I told myself that I simply had to ignore that and focus on how I could get myself around the curve and, after a big breath, I went for it.
In the first half, I felt kind of slow and clumsy but eventually, felt stronger overall, even as my hands and arms, unused to this kind of abuse, became sore. By the end, I thought I was making good progress as the technique, such as it is, grew more familiar. Generally I climbed using the mountain but did not shy from using the wire to pull myself up when other options did not seem viable. Frequently I was simultaneously pulling from one direction and pushing with one or both legs in another with a third direction in mind.
With only two small breaks of a couple of minutes, the climb took about 2:40. It is likely the most difficult physical challenge I have ever encountered, even taking into consideration the three marathons I have done. I realized that, going in, I really had no idea what would be required and, if I did, might not have attempted it. But, having done it, I was exhilarated and surprised at what I had accomplished. It is hardly the toughest via ferrata and only a modest version of the technically far more difficult (and dangerous) free climbing but, for me, it was a huge lift (literally!)
Attaining the top was a thrill; I was almost giddy. We ate with spectacular views all around; having had little vertigo during the climb, I was my old self at the top, fearful of getting closer than a few meters from the edge. Here is a shot of the Col di Bos and a couple of me along the way.
A short ways down, we came to a pass leading to the next valley, a raw and beautiful sight that just dazzled.
We picked (and slid) our way down a steep ravine to the bottom, surrounding by sharp outcroppings formed by the slowly eroding rock.
The view across the valley, of Cinque Torri (in foreground) was distracting as well.
All in all, a real highpoint of the entire trip in all ways.
April 11 - Last But Not Least
My last day was a self-guided tour around the Croda da Lago via the Passo Giau. A 40 minute bus ride up to the pass from Cortina was probably the most dangerous part of the trip - never a big bus rider, I was just happy to get off the bus with breakfast still in my stomach.
Although it has a few nice ups, this hike is justly known for its beauty, starting up at the pass and then around the Croda da Largo with exceptional views to the south as you can see below. Wildflowers were abundant while the mountains and valleys to the south were captivating. Recent excavations found evidence of habitation here dating back 10,000 years; it is easy to see why even Cro-Magnon people were drawn here.
A small alpine lake sat in the elbow of this formation.
Wildflowers sprung up where water could be found . . .
and I found an example of the symbol of the South Tyrol, the edelweiss (which I still associate with the Sound of Music).
Eventually, I came to the Refugio Croda da Largo, which fed me goulash with large dumplings. It sits next to the Lago Federa, which attracted a lot of swimmers.
My walk back to Cortina brought my last views of the town, the neighboring mountains and the forests that abound here.
Postscript:
As tired as my legs have grown on this trip, my eyes and appetite for the beauties of the Alps has only been whetted. I have ate well and seen much. I'm not sure any great personal awareness has crept up on me. I know that the outdoors will always be a passion, enjoyable both alone and with others. As I return at least for a time to New York, I know nature will be with me. Now I hope that I can explore people as well.
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