August 12, 2012

Cortina: Arrivederci Italia

August 8-9: From the Great War to the Moon

A couple of fairly quiet days, a welcome lull before my climb.  Wednesday I joined a large (20+) group of mostly British vacationers on Isabelle's tour of sites from World War I.  The tour took us up a modest pass to the foot of a mountain held throughout the war by the Austrian, facing a similar Italian installation across the valley.


The views from the valley were pretty fine both to the West and South, as can be seen in these shots.

As you can see from the pictures below, stone trenches and gun positions remain almost 100 years later.  Isabelle discussed the lengthy and bloody war in the area; upwards of 100,000 men died in various local battles, many from the harsh conditions, accidents and poor hygiene.  The highlight of the tour was a walk down a lengthy tunnel (sorry, no pics), past areas used for barracks, kitchens, cisterns, storage, officer's quarters, telephone switch rooms and toilets.  The noise (from diesel generators), fumes, bitter cold and wet, claustrophobic conditions must have made this a living hell for those serving here.

The military installation was in the shadow of an impressive col that several free climbers were taking on, their strangely loud shouts echoing down as we ate lunch atop the pass.  They are too small, I think, to see in this pic.

Evening in Cortina was quiet for me.  I tend to eat earlier (7:00) than most.  Shops are open until 8 and most visitors stroll the shopping district, grabbing a glass of rose or a gelato before heading on to dinner.  The mostly fancy shops had sales on but there were more lookers than buyers.  The salumeria selling prosciutto, speck and other meats and cheeses had the goods of greatest interest for me, though.

Thursday was my last day hiking with Isabelle.  We went a few miles north to Fiames, where we switched to a four-wheel for the winding uphill trip to the start of the hike.  Over the next 7 hours, we slowly toured the famed landscape of Sennes, much of it strewn with boulders thrown off by the mountains surrounding the area.  As you can see, the slow shifting of rock over millions of years has tortured some of the layers of rock into wild configurations, with whole layers exposed to elements that cause landslides and, in winter, avalanches.

After wandering across a lunar-like field, feeling like we might get hit by a falling rock at any moment, we arrived at a remote refugio, Biella, perched precariously at the foot of a slowly decomposing rock face (see below, left).  Maybe the danger inspired the cooks, who served up a fantastically satisfying version of the egg, speck and Ampezzan potatoes dish I had had earlier in the week (OK, maybe I'm not being adventuresome enough but its so so good.)

Continuing on, we came to a small alpine lake near a small farm with a large herd of sheep with (as you can see) the odd goat.  In a separate area, new-born little sheep stayed with their moms; this one seemed especially cute as it munched on moss).

After a long, knee-aching walk down, we finally reached the pick-up area for the return to Cortina.  I enjoyed more pizza that night to fuel up for the big day tomorrow.

August 10: I Can't Believe I Climbed the Whole Thing

Although I've done a lot of hiking (especially recently) and done a fair amount of rock scrambling, I have never really done anything like real climbing.  Thus, I was a climbing virgin (there's an image for you) as I approached today's via ferrata climb of the Col di Bos, a 1500 foot peak we'd hiked around on Thursday.  My guide was Paolo, a licensed alpinist (and winter ski instructor); two others were also in our small group, a nice young couple (Carlo and Laura), who were vacationing from Milan with their two young children and nanny.  Laura had done some climbing years ago and both were fit but neither had done anything like this either.

Paulo kitted us out with helmets, harnesses and a few minutes of instruction as we waited our turn at the bottom of the mountain.  Via ferrata climbing uses fixed wire ropes rather than than temporary ropes set by climbers for a particular climb.  It involves much less technique and danger than ordinary free climbing.  Each climber has two short ropes with clips that are clipped on to the wire at almost all times (we were also attached to each other by longer ropes).

I truly had no idea what to expect and did not appreciate what it took to actually do this sort of climbing, which was probably a good thing.  As Paolo warned us, the beginning 30 meters was quite difficult, with some overhang and few foot or handholds.  My inexperience and modest upper body strength almost got the better of me before I had hardly even started but, with much huffing and puffing (not to mention patience from Laura, who was below me), I hauled my carcass up high enough to get to a slightly easier portion.  It took me a while to get the rhythm of hooking and unhooking, and of finding decent handholds and footholds.  As is true of most of the Dolomites, the Col di Bos is slowly crumbling, making for more places to grab onto than, say, igneous rock formations but, at the same time, the edges tended to be razor-sharp.  Also, loose, as a rock from above reminded me when it clanged off my helmet.

So on we went, constantly up, up up, clipping and unclipping, trying to avoid tangling with the ropes connecting us.  I paid no attention to the cumulating height or the sheer drop below; my focus was riveted ahead of me as I tried to grapple with getting my ungainly self up.  Only once, when the route curved around a sheer overhang with nothing below for hundreds of feet other than a small outcropping (two inches wide) to stand on,  did the reality where I was really hit my gut (actually a little lower than that).  I told myself that I simply had to ignore that and focus on how I could get myself around the curve and, after a big breath, I went for it.

In the first half, I felt kind of slow and clumsy but eventually, felt stronger overall, even as my hands and arms, unused to this kind of abuse, became sore.  By the end, I thought I was making good progress as the technique, such as it is, grew more familiar.  Generally I climbed using the mountain but did not shy from using the wire to pull myself up when other options did not seem viable.  Frequently I was simultaneously pulling from one direction and pushing with one or both legs in another with a third direction in mind.

With only two small breaks of a couple of minutes, the climb took about 2:40.  It is likely the most difficult physical challenge I have ever encountered, even taking into consideration the three marathons I have done.  I realized that, going in, I really had no idea what would be required and, if I did, might not have attempted it.  But, having done it, I was exhilarated and surprised at what I had accomplished.  It is hardly the toughest via ferrata and only a modest version of the technically far more difficult (and dangerous) free climbing but, for me, it was a huge lift (literally!)

Attaining the top was a thrill; I was almost giddy.  We ate with spectacular views all around; having had little vertigo during the climb, I was my old self at the top, fearful of getting closer than a few meters from the edge.  Here is a shot of the Col di Bos and a couple of me along the way.

A short ways down, we came to a pass leading to the next valley, a raw and beautiful sight that just dazzled.

We picked (and slid) our way down a steep ravine to the bottom, surrounding by sharp outcroppings formed by the slowly eroding rock.

The view across the valley, of Cinque Torri (in foreground) was distracting as well.

All in all, a real highpoint of the entire trip in all ways.

April 11 - Last But Not Least

My last day was a self-guided tour around the Croda da Lago via the Passo Giau.  A 40 minute bus ride up to the pass from Cortina was probably the most dangerous part of the trip - never a big bus rider, I was just happy to get off the bus with breakfast still in my stomach.

Although it has a few nice ups, this hike is justly known for its beauty, starting up at the pass and then around the Croda da Largo with exceptional views to the south as you can see below.  Wildflowers were abundant while the mountains and valleys to the south were captivating.  Recent excavations found evidence of habitation here dating back 10,000 years; it is easy to see why even Cro-Magnon people were drawn here.

A small alpine lake sat in the elbow of this formation.

Wildflowers sprung up where water could be found . . .

and I found an example of the symbol of the South Tyrol, the edelweiss (which I still associate with the Sound of Music).

Eventually, I came to the Refugio Croda da Largo, which fed me goulash with large dumplings.  It sits next to the Lago Federa, which attracted a lot of swimmers.

My walk back to Cortina brought my last views of the town, the neighboring mountains and the forests that abound here.

Postscript:

As tired as my legs have grown on this trip, my eyes and appetite for the beauties of the Alps has only been whetted.  I have ate well and seen much.  I'm not sure any great personal awareness has crept up on me.  I know that the outdoors will always be a passion, enjoyable both alone and with others.  As I return at least for a time to New York, I know nature will be with me.  Now I hope that I can explore people as well.

August 7, 2012

Cortina - La Dolce Vita

Cortina is really two places, an upscale mountain resort town with wealthy Italians who dress to be seen and the center for world class hiking, cycling and winter sports.  Needless to say, I fit in neither category but have enjoyed watching these two worlds mix (if not collide) for the past few days.

Yesterday, I set off with my guide, Isabelle, for the first of several day hikes near Cortina.  Isabelle is a Brit who relocated to Italy many years ago and is now settled near Cortina with a work life divided between guiding hikes (both groups and individuals) and acting as a translator.  She knows and loves the area and has a deep knowledge of its history, politics, ecology and pathways.

Our first day was centered on the Prato Piazza, a high mountain meadow surrounded by peaks and a favorite for locals because of its simple, warm beauty.  After a steady hike up, we reached the broad meadow and turned around to see the Croda Rossa (10,300 feet) to the west, so named for its reddish color, the result of iron leaching from some of the many sedimentary layers that are characteristic of this region.

We crossed the valley and stopped at a refugio for a coffee.  Refugio were originally like huts in Switzerland, remote shelters that hikers and climbers could use for a safe night's rest.  In this area, though, they have evolved into far more.  By law, refugio must still accommodate all those who wish to stay overnight, even that means putting them on the floor in the dormitory with a blanket.  Today, though, the main focus for the refugio is food and drink for visitors, whether hikers or simply those who drive or take a tram up.  Over 70 refugio are scattered in and around Cortina, many serving superb food, usually traditional in nature, with some blend of Italian and South Tyrolean food.

Isabelle explained how the German-speaking South Tyroleans who live between Cortina and the Austrian border are a small minority in Italy who are resentful of a 70-year history of fairly poor treatment at the hands of the Italians who won the territory in the aftermath of World War I.  Only with the current generation is there much intermarriage while affirmative action quotas seeking to rectify past discrimination create resentment among those in traditionally Italian areas.  Sound familiar?

Near the top of the ridge overlooking the Prato Piazza, we passed an old WWI Austrian fort placed to guard a pass to what was then Austrian territory to the north.  These show the view north toward the Austrian Alps (some with snow) and the fort itself.  No, the stroller is not left over from the war.

At the top of the ridge, we had a nice view of the entire area, including to the southeast, where the iconic Tre Cime di Lavaredo looms.  The Tre Cime is considered by many to be the classic Dolomite mountain; this picture does not really capture its ragged beauty but hopefully future days will bring me closer.

Many Dolomite ranges have this craggy appearance because of the sedimentary nature of rock in the region that was lifted tens of millions of years ago when the continents of Europe and Africa collided.  The Dolomite Mountains have been eroded fairly rapidly as pieces of the sedimentary rock fall off, creating the jagged edges seen here thrusting above mounds of sediment thrown off over the eons.

After another hour of hiking, we stopped for a late lunch at the Refugio Villandro, where I had a classic local mash-up dish of goulash (reflecting the Tyrolean influence) with polenta (Italian).  From there we had a long walk down, mostly through forest but passing more Austrian fortifications, including this stone trench.

The WWI struggle between the Austro-Hungarians and the Italians was an important component of Hemingway's A Farewell to Arms, which is now in my queue to re-read.

Last night, I enjoyed dinner at a local restaurant known, (as many are) for its awesome pizza, delivered piping hot from a wood-fired oven.  The place seemed to be a hangout for guides from the nearby climbing guide outfit.  Naturally, I had the pizza "Alpino," a dizzyingly delicious combination of mozzarella, speck (sliced smoked ham), gorgonzola and local mushrooms.  As they say, OMFG!

Today we went west instead of north, driving up to park in the shadow of the Croda Negra and the famous Cinque Torri, a collection of five peaks that are slowly disappearing due to erosion.  After a stop for coffee at the local refugio, which had an amazing gift shop featuring everything from cloying linens to grappa, we headed up toward the Col de Bos, a stalwart peak standing attention over the valley and hikers like us.

On the way up, we saw a large group of climbers taking a via ferrata (fixed line) route up the Col de Bos.  The fixed lines, usually heavy steel wire, hold climbers by lines attached to harnesses, a far safer means of climbing than the normal method involving ropes placed by the higher climbers.  I am hoping to do a relatively easy via ferrata climb on Friday or Saturday.

Looking across the valley, we saw what seemed to me an immense herd of sheep swarming up the hillside, a few dogs keeping them in line.

The peaks of Tufano di Rozes above us kept to the classic Dolomite sawtooth formation while across the valley the Cinque Terre peaks stayed in view as we circled around the col.

We took an early (12:30) lunch at Refugio A. Dibona, named after a well-known local guide.  An omlette of eggs, speck and potatoes d'Ampezzan was the perfect combination of carbs and protein.

After lunch, we continued to circumnavigate the mountain chain, coming to our first Italian military facility from the Great War, a crumbling former hospital.

The day was mostly clear but large clumps of clouds grazing the looming mountain walls a slightly mystical flavor.

We climbed up some patchy, scrambly sections of this next valley to reach a ledge before the mountains went completely vertical.

Curling around the right side of this group, we finally caught view of Cortina as it sits at the foot of an array of grey, craggy peaks.

Our trip down was steep, often following the winding path of a black diamond ski run, culminating the the slowly decomposing bob sled run from the 1956 Winter Olympics, which still produces some worrying curves.

By now we were close to town and I arrived at my hotel happy for the opportunity to remove my boots.  Dinner was at the Croda Cafe, where on Isabelle's suggestion I had a local speciality, pasta shaped like pockets filled with beetroot, topped with parmesan cheese and poppy seeds - another successful mashup of regional influences.

As I watched the holiday crowds mill by, I felt like the only American in town, my lack of Italian more obvious than ever.  I am hoping tomorrow's group tour of WWI sites gives me more opportunity to use my famous conversational skills!