Napa, California
April 23, 2012


I've arrived in wine country and have a chance to blog about my days in San Francisco.

San Francisco - Sittin on the Dock . . .

I have had a fascination with San Francisco since I was about 12 and read a teen mystery novel about some kids who lived in San Francisco.  The description of their life and the incredible diversity of the place seemed so cool.  It still does.

I arrived in San Francisco after an enjoyable ride in from Carmel; it took me a while to sort out getting to the hotel and happily turned over the car to the valet (a splurge, I know, but I parked in a lot thereafter).  I promptly walked down to the Ferry Building to Blue Bottle Coffee for an afternoon fix of their famous drip coffee.  It was a beautiful day and I sat (yes, on a dock by the bay) taking it all in.  Later that evening, I joined Muriel (a Dechert lawyer in SF) and her husband Winston for a fantastic meal at La Fusion, a new Latin-style restaurant nearby.  Muriel came on her crutches, still recuperating from dislocating her hip skiing down some insane uber-black diamond run.  She and Winston are amazingly active and it was fun to hear about all the ways they take advantage of the outdoors around SF.  Superb ceviche, empenadas, fall-off-the-bone lamb shank and a pitcher of sangria made for a delightful meal.

The next day I tooled down to Sports Basement, a gigantic sports emporium housed in a former supermarket in the Presidio, close by the Golden Gate Bridge to rent a bike for spin around Marin.  My start was delayed, however, by a characteristically bone-head mistake; I somehow locked my keys in the trunk and had to wait almost an hour before someone could come by and jimmy the door open.  Red-faced, (actually, I'm always red-faced), I finally pedalled away, arriving at the Golden Gate while the fog still shrouded it with cool mist.

Golden Gate Bridge will celebrate its 75th anniversary in the next week or so and it remains an awesome structure of iconic beauty with marvelous views in every direction.  While New York has exception bridges, none have anything like the natural setting of the Golden Gate and I try to walk or bike it every time I come; it never gets old.

After crossing the bridge, I took Wilson's suggestion and headed west to Rodeo Beach.  The route takes you up a steep, narrow, one-lane tunnel where dripping water, some frozen, makes the going interesting on a bike.  I emerged into brilliant sunshine and a winding, downhill run to Rodeo Beach, a dark sand curved beach with surfers, school groups and daytrippers mingled.  I enjoyed the cool breeze and watched the surfers while girding myself for the uphill back to tunnel.  After struggling back up, I flew down into Sausolito and up a bit into the bay before heading back to the little town for some fish and chips.  I then churned back over the bridge and finished with a fast run to Fort Mason.

Dinner was at Tadich Grill, a classic downtown restaurant that reflects the traditional end of the very broad spectrum of society that resides here.  I savor its dark wood and unchanging menu; after the usual jostling wait for a seat at its long bar, I ordered what I always do - the cioppino.  I dream of its aromatic, garlicky goodness.  The good sourdough is perfect for soaking up the broth after finishing the seafood.

Inspired by the incredible weather, Saturday found me driving out to Golden Gate Park to run along the ocean and into the Presidio and back, chugging up the nasty hill by the (aptly named) Cliff House and the old Sutter Baths.  My luck ran out when, sailing down a path in the Presidio, I turned an ankle, so I gingerly hobbled back to my car after cooling the ankle in the Pacific.  It will be swollen and a bit discolored for a few days.That same weekend, As consolation, I thought of dinner at NOPA, a restaurant Matt introduced me to.  Lacking a reservation, I went early and happily sat at their communal table to enjoy the pork chop they are famous for (I know, Matt, I always order that).

I can't say that I left my heart in San Francisco but it is special for me; each time I go, I discover more and yet find out how much I have yet to learn about it.  I'll be back but first . . . Napa beckons.